Playa Grande & Bahia Blanca,
Rio San Juan D.R.

by Harley McAllister
If you are like 99% of the people who come to visit the north coast beaches in the Dominican Republic, you will likely end up at Cabarete, Sosua, or Puerto Plata.  As a result, these places are crowded, expensive, and packed with vendors trying to sell you stuff while you are trying to relax on the beach.  Watching the kite surfers can be fun, if they aren't running you over, and the wind tends to stir up the water so much that it is silty rather than blue.  But if you would like an alternative to all that, you simply have to look a little farther east along the coast to find Rio San Juan and its surrounding beaches, including Playa Grande.
Playa Grande is just that - big.  The beach is a over a mile long, and we have been there Saturdays when there were less than 30 people along the entire length!  And what our older boys love is that this beach also has big waves - you will often see boogie boarders and surfers riding the waves, put we have never seen it so crowded that we couldn't have a spot to ourselves.  The waves are ideal for playing in and body surfing for kids who are 8 and up, but you do want to be aware of some minor rip currents near the shore. Perhaps the best thing about this beach, however, is the crystal clear blue water that crashes into the white sand. It is literally a picture perfect version of what you imagine a tropical beach to be.

For those used to the larger tourist towns, Rio San Juan is a much quieter town but still has a good number of restaurants.  And you won't find massive hotels and resorts in Rio San Juan, but you will find Bahia Blanca.  This hotel is old, and in many ways it shows its age.  But it is RIGHT ON THE WATER, the waves actually crash against the foundations of this cool spot as it juts out into the water.  On either side are public beaches with placid waters that are perfect for young kids.  The best feature of this hotel for parents is that it also has huge porches on the second and third floors, so you can put your kids to bed in the room and then sit just outside your room on the expansive porch and listen to the ocean, watch the sunset, and read a good book.  The downsides are that the rooms are very basic with no TV or A/C, and the mattresses are not very comfortable.  But for 1600RD (~$36 USD) per night, you are still getting a great deal.

If you prefer a beach that is a little more secluded and never has big waves, you will find that even closer to Rio San Juan.  Just 2-3 minutes east of town on the highway you find Playa Caleton - you can't actually see it from the road, so look for signs or ask for help, it is near a vegetable stand under a large mango tree that is on the right side of the road. 

This little beach is located in a small cove that protects it from the ocean waves.  This makes it great for young and old because you won't get hammered by waves here.  In addition to the tranquil swimming area, there are numerous trees nearby which are excellent for hanging hammocks.  And if you are a little adventurous and have snorkel gear, there is actually some decent snorkeling to be found still within the small cove, over on the western (left) edge where there are some coral heads.  There are also numerous sea urchins in this snorkeling area, so be careful if you need to put your feet down while you are swimming over there.

So, whether you are looking for a secluded beach like Caleton, or a big wave, big fun beach like Playa Grande, we believe a trip to Rio San Juan will leave you wanting to come back again for more.